Wednesday, May 10, 2017

Roger Scemama: Parurier

Alongside Roger Jean Pierre, another Roger -- Roger Scemama  -- was also one of the most renowned "paruriers" of his time. The "paruriers," who particularly enjoyed a heyday after the Second World War, created costume jewelry and accessories to adorn and enhance the work of the couturiers. 

Roger Scemama produced jewelry for a number of couture designers, but in the 1950s he created works largely for Balenciaga and Givenchy. He was renowned for the highly obvious claw setting of his stones and also his opulent and baroque gilt metal designs.

One might think that the metier of the "parurier"  --an artisan who makes accessories for the haute couture industry -- originated far back in time, but in fact this is not the case. The word "parurier" only first appeared in the 20th century to designate a metier which developed in parallel to the growth of the fashion business by realizing the refined and sometimes exuberant ideas of dress designers “to adorn women’s clothing” as the dictionary definition tells us.

In other words, to accessorize haute couture and ready-to-wear creations during the Chanel, Lanvin, Grès, Fath, Balenciaga, Balmain, Dior, and Givenchy years.

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